December 8, 2023
The History of Men's Tuxedo: From Old to New World and Back
The true originator of bringing the smoking jacket to public attention remains uncertain, but records exist of a tailor crafting it for Prince Edward VII. Back then, the smoking jacket no longer resembled a robe; it vaguely resembled it only in the shape of the collar. The jacket was made of velvet, and the lapels were made of satin, as legend has it, to make it easier for ashes to roll off.
In the New World, this type of suit gained popularity thanks to American tobacco magnate Pierre Lorillard. He admired the English trend of wearing a shortened smoking jacket for informal daytime events instead of the cumbersome frock coat, especially one that allowed smoking. Initially, members of the elite Tuxedo Club, founded by Lorillard, embraced this trend, followed by other affluent men in the United States. Interestingly, they still refer to the tuxedo as the 'tuxedo' there.
But behind closed doors, the smoking jacket's reign was short-lived. Gradually, this wardrobe element evolved from a simple dinner suit into an evening outfit. It found its way to invitation-only dinners, private soirées, and other semi-formal events 'for one's own.' For formal evening celebrations, the frock coat was still the norm. However, over time, the smoking jacket crossed that line as well, becoming the second most formal and strict dress code, following the black tie.
During this era, Americans were trendsetters in fashion, and this trend quickly spread to both the British Isles and continental Europe. The suit began accumulating various accessories, now synonymous exclusively with the tuxedo, such as the cummerbund, striped trousers, and piqué shirt.
WHY WEAR A TUXEDO TODAY?
The tuxedo serves to craft an elegant and formal look for special occasions, signifying the wearer's status and sophistication. In official settings where a strict dress code is imperative, the tuxedo stands unrivaled. For several decades, it has been a contemporary and comfortable alternative to the classic tailcoat.
Typically, a tuxedo is a must when the invitation indicates a black-tie dress code. However, it finds its place beyond official invitations, suitable for events like theatrical premieres, red carpets, award ceremonies, corporate milestones, or international company gatherings. It's essential to confirm the event venue in advance; for instance, a tuxedo might be unnecessary in a mountain chalet setting
HOW DOES A TUXEDO DIFFER FROM A CLASSIC SUIT?
The key distinction between a suit and a tuxedo lies in their purpose. A men's suit, whether a three-piece or two-piece, serves as everyday wear and falls under business attire. While there are suits designed for special occasions, they can still be adapted to fit an office dress code, and they are versatile in terms of accessory pairings